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Map: Rivercross-Rivercross-spr-1005 - 1005 martin

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Submitted by: Meta - 2009-07-19

Wow! This entire fortress is insane! :)
Map: AFD's Rivercross entry - 1005 A_Fey_Dwarf

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Submitted by: Meta - 2009-07-14

The tower is really great and the steamer is a good idea.
I don't like the defended workshop area. An underground one may have looked better.
Why didn't you continue the road on the other side? It could have been great.
Map: DF Masters - Rivercross - 1005 crash2455

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Submitted by: Meta - 2009-07-14

What a really large bridge! :)
I love the tribute, but I think that floors could have look better, in a dwarf's way.
The maze and the unfinished arch look great.
Map: Rivercross - 1005 Grimlocke

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Submitted by: Meta - 2009-07-14

The central tower is impressive and I greatly appreciate the red & yellow bridge. You should add POIs
And how do you defend against the gobelins? I didn't find your defenses.
Map: RivercrossMeta - 1001 Meta

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Submitted by: Meta - 2009-07-08

It's the Ranting Rodent's Graphical set. You can find it here or here.
Map: Tizotkogan, "Shankboat" - 303 PenguinsScareMe

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Submitted by: PenguinsScareMe - 2009-07-07

Wow, I didn't think anyone would actually be looking at this map. To answer the horizontal expansion question, the horizontal footprint of this map is repeatable, so you could conceivably just repeat it in whichever direction you wanted. Also, I've actually improved on the fort design, and am now building the same fort, but with a waterfall-based defensive system and a way to completely seal off access from one topside shaft when/if it gets compromised.
Map: Chucktrade - 203 YF-23

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Submitted by: Mechanoid - 2009-07-02

Making your channel wider will only cause it to fail harder.

Instead, dam the river that feeds the artificial lake on the end where the water leaves the map, and reduce the width of your channel to 1 tile. That way you will have 4 tiles of water traveling through a 1 tile wide channel, and fill the lake faster then a wide channel ever would.

Wide channels allow the water to 'slosh' around inside it instead of actually flowing through -- you can see this in the large (16+ tile) rivers; one end gets dried up slowly but surely.
Map: Syrupdwellings - 216 NEO|Phyte

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Submitted by: Mechanoid - 2009-06-21

Staircase designations should speed up the excavation of the pillar area, namely, everything gets dug out at once. That way when it's time to channel away the stairs, there is barely any risk of cave in and they can do it without player intervention to save a stupi-dorf.
Map: Tradeclashed - 121 w4ldf33

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Submitted by: Mechanoid - 2009-06-12

What? No emerald-dye carpets?
I am disappoint.
Map: Ceilingact - 304 Phlamethrower

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Submitted by: Phlamethrower - 2009-06-08

Operation GET WELL SOON was a complete success!

By which I mean it failed.

Although it succeeded in generating lots of water and killing a kitten, the water then promptly ran straight down the funnel and out a hole in the bottom of the map.

Well, you learn something new every day.
Map: Standardwild - 1066 Zaltanek

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Submitted by: Doomender - 2009-06-06

Hey, nice fountain. I try to do the same basic theme, but my dwarves keep drowning. Maybe I should go for your method....
Map: Silverhall - 28 Silfurdreki

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Submitted by: Phlamethrower - 2009-06-03

That's a lot of bridges!

I hope you remembered to check the mechanisms all worked before you started filling the channel - it would be a pain to have to go back afterwards and try to fill in/repair any gaps in the obsidian.
Map: Silverhall - 20 Silfurdreki

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Submitted by: Phlamethrower - 2009-05-24

As long as the wall is on flat ground, it should be possible to use the technique I attempted - dig a hole underneath the wall and then trigger a cave-in to cause the wall to fall down into the hole. If it's planned right you could make the wall sit flush with the ocean floor once it's been sunken - e.g. dig a hole in a T-shape underneath the wall, then drop two rings of obsidian. The obisidian rings will punch through the floor sections that are attaching the wall to the ocean floor, causing the wall to collapse into the hole. Although it's probably worth testing this out on dry land somewhere since I have a feeling the obisidian rings will support the wall and stop it falling. In which case you'd have to use two cave-ins instead of one - first drop a constructed floor to trigger the wall to collapse, then drop two obsidian rings to fill in the remaining holes. Unless you don't mind having a slightly uneven seabed afterwards!

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Submitted by: Phlamethrower - 2009-05-23

This may or may not help, but here's a link to my almost-successful underwater fortress.

If you're sticking with your plan of dropping a wall of obsidian into the ocean, my only real advice is to make sure that you keep it all on flat ground, otherwise getting rid of the wall afterwards is a real pain, as can be seen with what happened to Blockaderhyming.

While building Blockaderhyming I performed various experiments to determine how cave-ins work; if you look through the different maps you should hopefully find some notes about each one, which might help you a bit.

If only I'd thought to check whether constructed walls were cave-in proof :(

Good luck!

[Message edited on 2009/05/23 at 09:37 by Phlamethrower]
Map: Deathquest - 217 ToonyMan

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Submitted by: Mechanoid - 2009-05-10

/wrist @ the piles of gobage

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